Ramble On

Hi faithful readers! Been missing me? Well, I’m on the road, visiting Russia’s two great capitals. In fact, the trip was inspired by another visit – my bff Jessie came all the way from Boston to hang out! She flew back home this morning, leaving me in Moscow, so I have a little time for an update. Actually, I’m writing from the lobby of Napoleon Hostel, so this will be a quick and dirty entry.

I can’t tell you how amazing it was to have Jessie with me in Yekaterinburg. We had only a couple days there, but now she’s the only person from my “real life” to see how I’ve been living this year. In Ekat, we did all the typical tourist sites which have already been described here, plus a couple more. We saw the “fake border of Europe and Asia,” plus the real site where the Romanovs’ bodies were destroyed. Regular readers will remember that the Romanovs were killed in the city proper, but as it turns out, their bodies were taken, hacked, burned w/acid and buried in the forest. On that site now stands a monastery, with seven churches for each member of the family. A sad story, but a beautiful memorial came out of it. Of course we ventured into the forest on the coldest day in weeks. When our host asked Jessie if she was as cold as she looked, she yelled, “Colder!”

We flew to Petersburg on Sunday night to hang out with my friends up there. Plus, it happens to be one of the world’s most beautiful cities, and Jessie, as an art historian, couldn’t miss the Hermitage. We smashed all the major museums, plus stumbled on the most adorable gallery of puppets. At the Marinsky we saw the charming Soviet ballet, “The Little Hunch-backed Horse.” So sweet! Unfortunately, we couldn’t find matzah or any of the other Passover Seder necessities, but we did make some great dinners, including one of all appetizers, like Cher in Mermaids. What else…we saw the cool printing studio where my girl Lauren does her thing, went out to a club when they were having a funk party, and took plenty of walks drinking plenty of Funky Juz. Shout out to Lauren “Abmanitsa” for letting both of us crash, not just at her place, but in her bed!

Then Jessie and I took the over-night train to Moscow. I knew pretty much what to expect, but my poor dear, she didn’t get a good night’s sleep the whole two weeks she was here. We arrived “cracked out,” but out of the whole train, we were the only women who looked it. Still, we gave it our all in the two days Jessie was in Moscow. The first day, we tackled Red Square. We really wanted to see the Armoury, where the crown jewels are, and I somehow talked the cashier into selling us student tickets, even though neither of us have valid student ID’s. But I plead our case so persistently, she finally said, “Take them and never tell anyone.” I never would’ve been able to accomplish this when I arrived in August, not to mention translating everything for hypo-allergenic Jessie. The next day, we found the Starlite Diner, a favorite expat eatery and went to the incredible Tretyakov Gallery.

I was sad to say goodbye to Jessie this morning, but how can I complain? I can’t even tell you how much it means to me that she came out here. Jessie and I could have fun doing nothing together, but we’re also great travel partners. She’s so sweet, thoughtful, funny and brave! What a woman…what a phenomenon. So now I’m alone in Moscow, but just for a couple days. Soon crazy Sydney, with whom I studied Russian at Bard, will come out to see me, Lauren and all her favorite haunts in the motherland. In the meantime, I’ll hit up the “New” Tretyakov, Tolstoy’s estate and whatever else I find in this most beautiful, most expensive city.

That’s all for now folks. Much love.